Walking Routes

14km/8.5ml
5 to 6hours
Easy to moderate – Including a single ascent to 130m/400ft

This walk begins at the phone mast just west of Leenane village. It ascends gently to the 130m/400ft contour which the path follows around the mountain. Good dry underfoot conditions. Great scenery!

The walk descends to Glencraff and follows this side road to the N59. Follow the N59 and take first right which descends past mussel farms to the green road overlooking the outer Killary. Conditions here can be wet, especially after heavy rain.

When path runs out, stay to the left of obvious rock spine and regain green path which curves past cottage to paved road. Here turn right to gain Rossroe pier for pickup.

14km/8.5ml
6 hours
Easy to moderate walking – Including a single ascent to 130m/400ft

This walk begins at the phone mast just west of Leenane village. It ascends gently to the 130m/400ft contour which the path follows around the mountain. Good dry underfoot conditions. Great scenery!

The walk descends to Glencraff road; it continues straight ahead along a forestry path and emerges onto a bog path at Tooreenacoona. At this point, there is another side road which can be used to exit the walk if desired.

Continue ahead on the (ill-defined) track across open bogland between the Maumturk and Twelve Bens mountain ranges. Parts of this bog trail can be wet so wear good boots.

This walk ends where the bog trail emerges onto paved road at Illion, above Lough Inagh where pickup can be arranged. The option exists to continue along the Western way after over-nighting in a nearby B&B.

7km/4.5ml
1 to 2hrs
Easy to moderate walking – Gentle ascents

Our route leaves Leenane, walking on the Westport road past the Leenane Cultural Centre. On the left is the upper reaches of Killary Harbour and the tidal estuary of the Erriff River. The sandy expanses seen here at low tide are deposited by the river when in spate. Across Killary, Bengorm rises majestically while Letterbrickaun stands on the right. The parallel patterns seen on some of the steepest slopes of Bengorm are faint traces of old cultivation ridges or “lazy beds”, and they tell of a once more populous countryside. It is a long time since these were used, some dating to the time of the Great Famine of the 1840’s. Ahead, away up the Erriff valley, you can sometimes get a glimpse of Maumtrasna Mountain. Our way now descends towards the Glenagevla River and we cross the bridge before turning right. We follow the road into this lovely sheltered valley, dominated on the left by Binn Garbh or the Rough Summit (called the Devil’s Mother on most maps). Unusually for Connemara, trees grow well here because of the shelter. Willows and ash are common and give a special quality to this landscape oasis. The mountain on the right, Leacan, overlooks a neat and well maintained farm landscape that contrasts strongly with the surrounding wild lands. As we reach the turn in the road we see the entire valley is protected by a ridge running unbroken from Binn Garbh around to Letterbrickaun. This feature is typical of a glacial valley, scoured and scrapped and deepened by the moving ice sheet, which had its origin at the head of the valley under the ridge.

The road heads back along the river, through the village of Glanagevla (Gleann na nGeimhleach, or the Valley of the Prisoners: who or what was captive here is unknown). More “lazy beds” are evident away up on the left hand side and we recognise that everywhere are signs of a previous population. Ahead we again see Bengorm with the Sheeffry Hills) behind and to the east. We soon return to the bridge which we crossed earlier and, turning left, begin to retrace our steps towards Leenane. As Leenane Hill comes into view over the village the extent of cultivation in inaccessible places becomes evident – “lazy beds” are everywhere. Also high on the hillside large walled fields are clearly seen, telling of a past when Leenane was a great sheep centre. These huge pens were used to hold stock brought to the village for the great pattern fairs of the past. Away ahead, and to the right, the Western Way winds its route over the shoulder of the hill.

8km/5ml
2 hours (one way)
Easy to moderate walking – Including a single descent to sea level

The start of this walk is approximately 8km from Leenane village, on the right after crossing the bridge over the Owenmore River. This side of the road dates from early last century when the local landlords, the Thompsons of Salruck, carried out improvements to their Killary estate. On the right, as we descend towards the shore, the wooded area in the valley is the work of these earlier landlords. Trees and rhododendrons were favourite plantings and, especially in sheltered areas, the latter now has the status of as problematic weed. Our route brings us past the new service area on the right for the mussel farms. Rafts and lines of blue or black floats support the ropes o n which these shellfish are cultivated and, free from the bottom currents and predation, they grow faster than if clinging to rocks.

The length of the Outer Killary begins to open out before us and the size of this bay can be fully appreciated. Originally the line of a geological fault, probably shaped somewhat by river erosion, Killary Bay was scoured and widened by glaciers as they poured down the Erriff valley and eventually melted away by the same route. By 10, 000 years ago the ice sheets had gone and the shape of the modern landscape had been set. Across Killary stands the mass of Mweelrea, the highest mountain in Connaught, and the steepness of its slopes can help us judge the depth of water. Further on we pass some isolated cottages from earlier this century, uninhabited now, but not long ago sheltering the families that worked this relatively fertile oasis. As our walk progresses, we keep to the right-hand track.

There is a potential choice within the final three kilometres but, to stay with the Killary as long as possible, keep again to the right. (It is possible to leave the track and gain the little Killary via a rocky gap on the left). The stone foundations of the old road are in disrepair here, but passage can be easily made. Ahead the navigation marks (beacons) for safely entering the Killary are clearly visible rising up from island and rock. Tucked under the lee of the shore ahead you can just glimpse the floating structure of the salmon farm. Bearing around left, our track passes close by cottages in the form of Rosroe and we turn right to finish on the pier 100 meters beyond. The youth hostel here has literary and philosophical connections; as Rosroe Cottage it sheltered Richard Murphy and Wittgenstein and others.

5km/3ml
1 hour
Easy to moderate walking – Undulating

From Tullycross, take the Letterfrack road descending towards the speed limit sign at the village entrance. Our route turns right just beyond this sign, down the hill to Derryherbert. Ahead we see Tully Mountain (Leitir Hill) and the water tank on the hillock to the right. The line of this road follows the edge of this hillock above the water logged bogs on the left. Ash, Hawthorn and other small trees make up the hedgerows here their success due to the underlying drier soil and the shelter of the hillock.

On the left is an expanse of well developed blanket bog, now cut for fuel. Our route takes the first turn left, out across the blanket bog. Tully Mountain is now on our right; Diamond Hill on the left with some of the Twelve Bens visible behind. From the cutaways, some impression can be gained as to the depth of peat that developed in sheltered low-lying bogs such as this. Ancient pine stumps protrude from the cutaway peat; physical remains of once extensive woodland. Scot’s Pine was the dominant tree here about 4, 000 years ago and the number of stumps and fallen boles here indicate that this was once substantial woodland.

Looking to the left, on the ridge line of the nearby hillock, you can see clearly the stone alignment on the horizon. This is known locally as the “Fairy Fingers”. It is a Bronze Age alignment, a ritual site aligned with the setting sun on December 21st, the winter solstice. It is located in close proximity to other pre-historic features and is typical of the rich heritage of the Renvyle peninsula. The track rises onto drier ground and, once passed the houses, our route turns left down the hill towards the Derryinver estuary. Keeping left at the bottom we follow the estuary back to the bridge, where salmon leap up the falls into the Dawros River to spawn. At the bridge we turn left for Tullycross and our starting point about 2.2kms distant.

5km/3ml
1 hour
Easy to moderate walking – Undulating

Leave Tullycross on the Letterfrack road; Tully Mountain (known locally as Leitir Hill, the wet hillside) is away on the right and on the green hillock closer by is the storage tank for the local water supply. The road descends for about 2.2kms towards the mouth of the Dawros River, a famous salmon and white (sea) trout fishery. In spring and early summer, of the conditions are right, you may see salmon jump the falls below the bridge at Derryinver. Ahead, the peaks of Diamond Hill and Knockbrack are in the foreground with Muckanaught (correctly Macha Nocht) one of the Twelve Bens, looming behind.

Our route follows the track to the left, immediately before Derryinver Bridge, by another water storage tank. Up ahead rises Currywongaun, with the dark mass of Doughruagh behind; Altnagaighera and Lettergesh Mountain behind (Benchoona) are visible away to the northwest. Our route is through an actively harvested blanket bog. Here on the floor of the valley the peat or turf has developed to a considerable depth (up to 3m +) and has been cut for fuel for as long as people have lived here. In the water logged low-lying cutaways, you can find floating mats of the bog moss (Sphagnum), which, as it grows, accumulates increasing the depths of peat. In other cut-away areas you will see ancient pine stumps protruding from the peat. These are remnants of a Scot’s Pine woodland that covered much of this valley approximately 4, 000 years ago.

Our route takes a second turn left and, directly ahead in the distance, rises the summit of Mweelrea, the highest peak in Connaught. The green hillock in the foreground (called Greenmount), contrasting strongly with the surrounding bog land, is a drumlin – a free draining hill of glacial gravel which gives rise to the better farmland. We turn left on the Currywongan road and make our way back to Tullycross. As we reach the village sign, we can see, away on the right, Clare Island in the foreground; Achill Island in the distance beyond and Caher Island framed by the bulk of Achill.

5km/3ml
1 hour
Easy to moderate walking – Undulating

This walk begins in Cleggan Village, turning right towards the harbour which was begun in 1822 by Alexander Nimmo, and extended in 1908 at the height of the lucrative mackerel and herring fisheries of that period. Our way turns left beyond the Pier Bar and the track rises up on a ridge of sand and gravel deposited here as the glaciers of the last ice age melted 10, 000 years ago. These gravels are free-draining and more fertile than the surrounding lands and they support better farmland.

On your right is Cleggan Bay with Cleggan Head on the opposite (North) shore. Cleggan (correctly Cloigeann, meaning a skull) takes its name from the doomed shape of Cleggan Head. At its summit you can make out the ruined remains of a watchtower, part of the signalling system built along the west coast in the first decade 19th century to warn approaches by the French fleet. As you crest the rise the spectacular seascapes with Inishshark, Inishboffin and many smaller islands, becomes visible. The route then passes some modern house and bears right on the unpaved track at the T-junction. This brings you to Sellerna beach. Exploring along the shore, you will discover a Cillín (ancient children’s burial ground where unbaptised infants were in times past) at the west end and the wedge tomb (Neolithic burial place, circa 4, 000 BC) at the east end.

Retrace your way back along the track passing your original path on the left. Bear left on the paved road towards Cleggan village. 220m on the right, the large black and white buildings were once the old coast guard station. As you approach the village, the bay appears again on your left and, away in the distance, the Twelve Bens, Diamond Hill and Kylemore Valley.

6.5km/4ml
1.5 hours
Easy to moderate walking – Flat

Begin by leaving Cleggan Village behind you with the bay on your left. Take the first turn left, following the line of the bay which is dominated by Cleggan Head on the opposite shore. Low sand and gravel deposits are also visible on this far shore; behind as the last ice-sheets melted away 10, 000 years ago.

Our route follows the road across the road over the head of the bay and Cleggan beach. This is built on a natural storm beach of cobbles and boulders thrown up during stormy weather. On the right is Lough an Oileain (the lake of the island), which was naturally impounded as the storm beach impeded drainage. The lough is now brackish and supports vegetation and more wildfowl than many other acidic loughs in Connemara. As we leave the bay behind us, the road passes near a field of drumlins on the right. These hills of glacial gravel left behind by the melting ancient ice-sheets, indicating that glaciers retreated away from the bay along the line of the Ballynakill valley. These drumlins are in the town lands of Sheenauns (Sidhan meaning fairy hills) and some older people recall the superstitions associated with the place. As you pass along, try and spot the circular enclosure atop one of these Sidhan. This is an ancient enclosure, possibly Celtic Iron Age or early Christian in date, which was “restored” for use as a sheep pen. As you pass the first drumlin, watch out for the Children’s Burial Ground (Cillín) on the left. It is the oval raft of strewn boulders in the sloping field. Our way takes the next turn right, into the town land heartland of Sheenauns and among the drumlins. The circular stone enclosure becomes very visible away on our right.

As we pass, on the left, an unoccupied two-story house, a Bronze Age stone alignment becomes visible along the ridge. (Please, do not enter private property without permission). This area is rich in prehistoric remains which probably contributed to the origin of the name Sheenauns and the old associated superstitions. As our route bears round to the right, the bay again becomes visible with Inishshark and Inishbofin floating on the sea. We also see, in the pattern of small fields and old ruins, evidence of a larger community on these gravel-based soils in the last century. Such gravels are exposed on the left side of our route in a small quarry. The road descends to the river, and our route takes a right turn immediately after the bridge. Here we see a white quartz standing stone and a Bronze Age ritual stone, in the field on the right.

The route follows under some dry sheltered scarps, where the willow and hazel can thrive. As we regain the shore of the lough, we meet an area of hazel scrub through which a small waterfall cascades spectacularly following rains. We descend towards the beach road again, turn left and retrace our steps along the bay back to Cleggan village.

6.5km/4 ml
2 hours
Easy to moderate – Undulating

This walk heads east from Clifden along the main Galway road. Leaving the town you can see the remains of the old Galway to Clifden railway on your right. All that remains now is part of the embankment on which the track rested. The railway was built in 1895 many years after lobbying began seeking government backing for this enterprise. Unfortunately, economic problems closed the line in 1935.

The road crosses the new bridge over the Owenglin River and you notice the turret on the old ‘Waterloo Bridge’, built in 1818. About 1km beyond the Clifden Glen development our route takes the small road dipping to the right. The base of the old Clifden Galway railway can again be seen in a cutting on the left side of the main road, and heading east across the bogs as we continue our way. Our road bears sharply right and we are looking out over the vast expanse of blanket bog known as the Roundstone Bog, an area of exceptional scientific interest. The road soon turns to a track which makes its way across an exceptionally beautiful landscape of bog, farmland and lakes.

Away to the south, the dark mass of Roundstone Hill rises. About 2km from the turn we overlook The Salt Lake: an almost land-locked arm of the sea that fills and empties at the bridge at Ardbear. The line of floats clearly visible in the water support ropes for mussel cultivation. If you wish, you might explore the little track to the left that brings you down to the stream flowing into Salt Lake. In the last century this stream supported a working mill which is no longer extant. The walk continues another mile or so into Clifden, finally crossing the bridge over the Owenglin River. In spring and early summer, after heavy rainfall, it is not unusual to see salmon leaping up the falls here on their way to their upstream spawning grounds.

6km/3.5ml
4.5 hours
Mostly moderate walking but difficult in the initial ascent is steep and challenging
Total ascent of 620m/2025ft Mweelin and Benbrack

This walk starts at the first track entrance on the right hand side after the exit from Kylemore Abbey. Part of the original Castle (later Abbey) lands the lane leads to a 19thC lime kiln, a ruined megalithic tomb and a children’s burial ground.

A steep ascent continues up the ridge overlooking Kylemore Lough. Although this climb requires reasonable fitness and effort, the rewards are great with spectacular views changing constantly until the summit of Mweelin (smaller of the 2 Benbauns on the map) is gained. Benbrack summit is reached along a gently rising ridge traversed by rocky outcrops.

From the summit of Benbrack follow the NW ridge into the saddle before the rise for Knockbrack. Once over the deer fence style, you gently descend to the north eventually gaining the path near the lime kiln once more.

8km/5ml
2 to 3 hours
Moderate – Undulating

Inishbofin Walking Tour

Starting at the new pier, this walk heads west and immediately turns right up the hill of Pound Road. This hill is a great deposit of sand and gravel left behind by the melting glaciers more than 10,000 years ago. Here the crushed rock and freer drainage make this part of the island inherently more fertile than the shallower peaty soils on the acidic rock outcrops elsewhere.

We turn west again at the top of the road and now have fine views over Bofin Harbour. Almost a mile long, this deep anchorage was an important haven for shipping in the age of sail. The imposing ruin at the mouth of the harbour opposite dates from the 1650s when the Cromwellian garrison rebuilt an older structure there. Older fortifications also tell us of the importance of this haven; the flat, vegetation-topped rock at the western mouth of the harbour is called Dún Gráinne, Grainuaile’s fort. This is a Celtic Iron Age or Early Christian promontory fort dating approximately from 2,000 years ago; the name (and a mediaeval window moulding) tells us it was also in use as late as the 16th century.

Our route now lies on the edge of the poorer, thinner soils that make up the island’s commonage, on the right. Turn right, pass some houses, and enter the commonage through a farm gate (close it!). This part of the walk overlooks Lough Bofin, from which the mythical white cow (of the island’s name) arises periodically. The area to the right and ahead is rich in prehistoric remains, mainly the foundations of terracing and house sites, probably from the Bronze Age, 3,700 years ago.

We pass through the gate onto North Beach, a ridge of shingle thrown up by ancient storms, but continually shifting under wind and sea pressure to the present day. Across the beach we again find a track which takes us to the North West end if the island. When you pass the final farm gate here, look out for a track heading right to the double sea arch, Poll Tolladh (the bore-hole). Our route follows an intermittent track heading south, parallel with the shore and rising with the emerging cliffs from Royal Oak Cove to the massive Dún Mór promontory fort. All that remains is the base of the defensive wall across the neck of the isthmus. From here our route back is clearly visible. With the sea to our right, we now follow a green road back through West quarter, passing the Doonmore Hotel, and on to our starting point at the pier.

11km/7.5ml
6 hours
Moderate – Undulating

Begin in the village, following the road uphill beside the pub. Take the first turn right and our route lies between the village and Roundstone Hill to the west. We pass initially through an expanse of European Gorse, beautiful in summer yellow, sheltering a group of stone walled fields where Connemara ponies often graze. Ahead on the left we see contrasting healthy slopes of commonage on the Roundstone Hill. The road climbs slightly and we are soon aware of the majestic Twelve Bens and Maumturk Mountains away in the distance. On the right Cashel Hill rises low in contrast.

Our way leaves behind us the better fields and field patterns can be seen on the left under the hill slope; old ruined buildings in a location no longer inhabited. Pass through the gate (closing it after us!) out onto the commonage, a grazed heath which in autumn shows spectacular colours contrasting between Dwarf Gorse and several species of heather. On the left, Roundstone Bay and Inishnee make up the foreground. As the track curves to a slightly higher elevation, we can see the splendid expanse of blanket bog and lough stretching away northward to the mountains of Connemara. The track we are on gives local access to the peat bogs and evidence of past and recent turf cutting is frequent. Away on the right, rhododendrons can be seen in sheltered dips in the rolling bog land; self-seeding from nearby plantings originating in the last century.

As the track begins to descend, the north western section of the Roundstone Bog becomes visible; an area of scientific interest for, among other attributes its rare flora and wintering white fronted geese. Our route takes the track to the right, through a farm gate. (If you have time, the left hand track here leads you to impressive views and adds about 5 km/ 3 ml to the length of the walk). Our route turns right at the paved road, back towards Roundstone. On the left we pass the head of Roundstone Bay and, on the opposite shore, the island of Inishnee. Coming closer to the village, passed Letterdyfe House, those botanically inclined can search out the unusual Babington’s Leak on the sea side of the wall.

10.5kms/6.5ml
2 to 3 hours
Moderate – Undulating

Our walk begins turning first left after Lough. Troscán beside the old stone building with grass growing in the old thatch. (Note the ancient Pine root in the garden). Rising above Lough Troscán, on the left you can see the pump house and storage tanks for the local water scheme. The walk passes both modern and traditional homes and farmsteads as it rises. Lough na Scainnimhe becomes visible on the left, as does the stone crannóg (see walk No. 21). Ahead the hill is called An Ghualainn (the shoulder). We soon leave the private lands behind and emerge onto the open land with granite outcrops interspersed between the grazed heath and boggy hollows. The road bears right and soon overlooks L. an Iarainn, the lake of the Iron. The buildings above the lough are local waterworks, set in a bleak peaty landscape, with granite outcropping frequently.

We soon pass a turn to the right. (Take this if you wish to cut short your walk, back to Leavey’s pub in Árd Mór, giving a total of 3.5ml/5.5km walking). Cresting the hill you now see L. an Óir (lake of the gold) with its outflow stream dammed to ensure water supplies. The hill to the right is Binn Bhuí (the yellow peak), and we soon begin our descent overlooking Cill Chiaráin Bay, with Lettermore and Carraroe away in the background. As we drop beneath the hillside, some tree growth has been possible in the shelter. We reach the main road in the village where, straight ahead past Conroy’s pub, brings you to the harbour beyond the seaweed factory. Our way is to the right, back towards Cárna. The road soon overlooks the salmon farms in the lee of Fínis Island, and we can pick up those who shortened their walk in Leavey’s in Árd Mór.

The last part of the walk passes, on the right, a good example of the traditional pattern of stone-walled fields and houses typical of this part of Connemara.